Update: I didn't crush hard last Friday like I thought I would. I actually felt pretty tired and ended up climbing easy and moderate routes. The same thing happened this past Monday night; I led some 5.10s but struggled to climb 5.11s cleanly. The mere thought of trying a 5.12 was laughable. In fact, I'm still shaking my head about it.
I find that, as I get older, I need more rest time in between hard workouts. This doesn't equate to rest days, per se, but instead requires staggering workouts to allow muscle groups more time to rest. Although I have desire to climb three days a week every week, I think it might be better to limit to 2 days/week. On the days when I am not climbing, I plan run, do yoga or strength training.
Thankfully, K had a work event on Wednesday which cinched my decision to give my fingers and shoulders break from climbing. Instead, I went on a foggy afternoon run. Starting around 3:30pm, I got in 6 miles and made it home before the rain started (which later turned into snow, shutting down the Federal gov't on Thursday). Having run a total of 4 miles in the previous 3 weeks, my legs were super fresh and full of glycogen. I felt so good that I surprised myself by running two 8-minute pace miles in the middle, which was very satisfying after so many weak-sauce climbing sessions. Despite my ability to run a decent pace without much training, I can tell that I am out of running shape because my quads were sore next day. Which, to be honest, only motivates me to want to run more and get back into running shape.
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